Koko, Montreal

Opus Hotel has made Art Nouveau minimalism the order of the day at its first restaurant, Koko, which takes up that forever-vacant space on the lobby level of the magnificent hotel. Nothing makes me hungry quite like a little Art Nouveau. I don’t know what it is. Most architectural styles have no impact on my appetite, but for whatever reason, Art Nouveau just makes my mouth water. Don't be put off by the slightly precious name: Koko is an extraordinary restaurant where complex textures are matched by sensuous, delicious flavours. Once you start looking, unexpected and inventive touches are everywhere. Executive Chef Don Letendre (Vancouver’s Opus Hotel) enjoys eye-catching matches— Bengali Blackened Salmon with mango salsa, Star Anise Barbecue Pork Belly Bites with puffed rice and Asian slaw, Spicy Masala Lobster with curried lentil hash. An Asian-style steak frites accompanying a baby watercress, wasabi and uni butter is in keeping with the East meets West theme. The modern Pan Asian dishes are delicate and inventive, if diminutive, and West Coast chef is eager to please, often sneaking in extra courses on tasting menus.