Tuscan chef Maristella Innocenti looks around at the remains of a former beauty parlor on the Lower East Side, wondering how to transform the forgotten property into a restaurant serving tasty meals from two of the world’s most colorful cultures. As her husband, Mexican chef Esteban Molina, begins hammering the cement wall, he discovers the seven of diamonds underneath the rubble, a lucky Italian omen. That was a year ago. It was a blessing that, since the birth of their daughter Matilda in 2003, would forever impact the family. The couple’s willingness to combine ingredients from their native lands would soon be discovered at Matilda, where the best of Tuscan and Mexican cuisine are savored by New Yorkers.
Innocenti, easily recognized for her moon-shaped face and hearty laugh, points at a car speeding outside blasting salsa music. Avenue C, known as “Loisaida” to Puerto Ricans, signifies the growing influx of residents from various cultures. Many families from the neighborhood are found in Matilda, where the vibrant spirit of its five-year-old muse is immediately felt. A corner known as “la zona rosa,” includes glowing magenta walls. What appears to be chocolate brown blocks on tables are palm-sized slip menus listing the little girl’s favorite gelatos made with Amish milk and fruit. “El carro” is a lime-green booth, allowing guests to hide behind closed doors. Across is “la mesa,” a black cherry bench where white light shines on a mosaic of Spanish and Italian phrases. “This restaurant is all about a dream to see both of my Matildas grow,” explains Innocenti as she looks at everyone’s sapphire plates, making sure no one is sitting hungry.
For some “Tusc-Mex” cuisine, visitors must try the guacamole alla Toscana, a pairing of freshly baked focaccia bread and a thick avocado spread containing basil and sweet red pepper. Tacos alla Fiorentina are warm, soft tortillas filled with juicy slivers of rare filet minion seasoned with rosemary and sharp Grano Padano cheese, tempting visitors to push aside crispy tostadas overtopped with plump shrimp and nutty cannelloni beans just for a taste. The highlight of Matilda is its refreshing Prosejito, a fizzy mojito made with an Italian white sparkling wine garnished with mint leaves. Guests who aren’t in the mood for sticky-sweet sangria can try some Mexican wines ranging from dry to liquid honey.
Aside from offering a creative cuisine, patrons can participate in monthly cooking slams, where they prepare their favorite delicacies and are judged by the couple. The winner then gets their meals featured in the restaurant’s menu. Ultimately, Innocenti hopes that more New Yorkers will stop by and see how Latinos have helped reinvent traditional meals found thousands of miles away. “That’s what Latinos are here for, to show everyone how to enjoy life!” she exclaims.
Matilda
647 East 11th Street
New York, NY 10009
(212) 777-3355
